White plaque appeared on the feathers of green onions. How to deal with thrips onions. Fungal bulb disease

Many gardeners refuse to grow onions in their area and prefer to buy it in a store. Onions are inexpensive, and with their own cultivation there are a lot of problems with them. One of the main causes is illness. But you can compete for the crop, if you know how.

Onion Disease General Information

There are many onion diseases that can rob us of crops. All of them are divided into fungal and viral. Fungal spores live in the ground, bulbs, plant debris. They appear in different ways, but have the same nature, reproduce in conditions of high humidity, are treated with the same methods. Viruses live only in living tissues, do not heal, are carried by insects. So, their appearance can be prevented by conducting pest control.

From the same plant it is impossible to simultaneously receive both greens and a head. When growing on turnips, do not pluck feathers, each leaf forms a head scale. In addition, at the place of stall or slice, the onion becomes vulnerable to disease.

Fungal leaf disease

Fungi hibernate safely in soil or onion sets. After planting in open ground, when favorable conditions are created, fungi begin to multiply actively. Their spores germinate inside the tissues, which leads to necrosis (death) of the leaves. In addition, they are carried by wind and rain from diseased plants to healthy ones. In a matter of days, the entire onion plantation can become ill.

Peronosporosis

Another name is downy mildew. The disease manifests itself approximately 3 weeks after the start of the growing season. Favorable conditions: rainy weather, plentiful dew in the morning, excessive watering amid coolness. Also, peronosporosis develops well in dense plantings, overgrown with weeds, when the onions are poorly lit and ventilated.

Signs:

1. In the initial stage, green feathers are covered with a powdery coating with a gray or purple hue.
2. In the affected areas, the tissue dies, turns brown, the leaves are deformed and dry.

From one plant, the entire garden becomes infected. Almost all crops are affected by downy mildew: vegetables, berry bushes, fruit trees.

Onion, all stages of peronosporosis are visible: powdery coating, tissue necrosis, feather death

Signs:

1. White spots with a watery outline appear on the leaves. They grow, acquire a concentricity resembling annual rings on a tree cut.
2. The color changes to brown with a burgundy hue.
3. In places where the spots merge, the feather breaks and dries.
4. In conditions of high humidity, a gray-black coating appears - these are mycelium with spores.

Alternaria fungi more often settle on old feathers, as well as those affected by peronosporosis, over necrotic spots. In this case, the leaves turn black. The disease passes to the bulb. It becomes watery, a brown coating appears between the juicy layers.

Signs of alternariosis: some spots are still small and white, others have already grown, become concentric and turn brown with a red tint

Rust

Signs:

1. Feathers of onions are covered with many convex red dots, similar to rust. Later they blacken.
2. The leaves are drying.
3. Spores winter on perennial onions and plant debris.

Rust also affects garlic and fruit trees. Favorable conditions for the propagation of fungi are high humidity (97%) and coolness or moderate heat (+ 15 ... + 20⁰C).

Rust often affects weakened plants under stress, for example, frequent watering with cold water, lack or excess of nutrition, attack by pests, etc.

Fungal bulb disease

Symptoms of these diseases are found onions during storage. But infection occurs even in the beds, fungi pass to the bulbs from the ground or from diseased leaves.

The development of fungal diseases contribute to:

• wet weather during the ripening period;
• early or late harvest;
• poor drying;
• violation of storage conditions.

Onions are dried with ventilated air at a temperature of +25 ⁰C ... +30 ⁰C. In winter, you can store it in the cold way - in the basement at a temperature of -3 ⁰C ... 0 ⁰C and humidity 75–90%, and warm - in the apartment at +18 ⁰C ... +22 ⁰C and humidity 50–70%. When buying seeds, you should clarify whether the onion is suitable for storage in winter. There are varieties for summer consumption only.

Neck rot

The fungus enters the bulb if rainy weather occurs after lodging the leaves. In this case, the feathers rot, and spores penetrate into the head. Obvious symptoms can be observed after 1–1.5 months of storage.

Signs:

1. The bulb at the neck becomes wet, turns brown inside.
2. Rot spreads from top to bottom.
3. Gray mold appears on the covering flakes (shirt).
4. Spores go to neighboring healthy heads.

Cervical rot is clearly visible in the section, it spreads from top to bottom

Another disease that develops due to rainy weather during the ripening period of the bulb or due to late harvesting, when the onion has been in moist soil for a long time. Fusarium fungi live in the soil and settle on the bottom of the bulb.

Signs:

1. Rot spreads from the bottom to the neck.
2. The head becomes watery.

At risk are plants weakened by other diseases, as well as pests.

Fusarium rot spreads from the bottom up, the bulb becomes watery

Green mold rot

Signs:

1. The top juicy scales become transparent and brown.
2. A bluish-green coating appears under the shirt, looking like dust.

The disease affects damaged or frosty bulbs.

In case of defeat by green rot, the head becomes empty, a dusty coating is found under the covering scales.

Aspergillosis

And this disease affects unripe, early removed from the garden beds. Disputes settle in thick and unhealed necks. They develop especially actively during storage at high temperature and poor ventilation.

Signs:

1. The bulbs become soft, then mummify.
2. A black dusty layer forms under the shirt.

Another name for aspergillosis is black onion rot.

Onion viral diseases

Virus carriers are sucking pests. They feed on juices, and for this they pierce the most vulnerable (soft and juicy) onion tissues. Then the insects move to another plant. Piercing his pen or head, they bring in the juice of the previous one. So the disease spreads. Viruses do not live in the earth, but only inside living plants and organisms.

Onion Mosaic

Signs:

1. The leaves become flat and corrugated, covered with light strokes and spots of various shapes.
2. The flower stalk is bent on the seed plants, the inflorescences are modified.
3. Instead of pistils and stamens, long leaflets grow, air bulbs form.
4. There are few or no seeds.
5. The heads in the earth are lengthened, do not mature, and without going to the dormant stage can begin to grow again.

Symptoms of the mosaic: the surface of some feathers is flat, corrugated, covered with light strokes, on others yellow spots of various shapes are visible

Yellow dwarfism

Signs:

1. Bright yellow stripes appear at the base, leaves are bent, curly.
2. The feathers turn completely yellow, their tips hang.
3. Sick plants look dwarf.
4. The bulb does not grow to the desired size.
5. Fruits are not tied to the testes or there are few of them.

A disease can ruin an entire crop. The onion dries while standing, without lodging the tops. In addition to onions and garlic, yellow dwarfs are subject to cereals and some varieties of daffodils. The virus persists in the bulbs.

Yellow dwarfism: leaves are bright yellow, curved, the bulb is small, does not grow

Ways to combat and prevent onion diseases

Onions grown on feathers are not treated with chemicals, otherwise they cannot be eaten.   Onions also have a short growing season, and diseases more often develop in its second half, when the bulb is poured, and the waiting period for fungicides is 20-60 days. In order not to fight diseases with radical methods, prevention is necessary.

Agrotechnical methods

1. Observe crop rotation. Return the onion to the old place no earlier than in 3-4 years. Best predecessors: pumpkin, zucchini, potatoes, beans, peas, early cabbage, tomatoes. Do not seal plantings with carrots. It may drive away the onion fly, but grows rapidly and begins to obscure the onion with its lush bushes, inhibiting its growth.
2. Provide good nutrition. With its deficiency, immunity decreases, fungi and viruses settle on weakened plants. Keep in mind that onions like neutral or slightly alkaline soil, fertilized with organic matter.
3. Place the bed in a suitable place: sunny, without stagnation of water, well ventilated.
4. Weed out, remove plant debris from the bed, loosen the ground between waterings.
5. Water the plantings according to the climate of your region. If it often rains, plant the onions in high beds so that there is no excess moisture. In arid regions, place plants on flat ground. Sprinkle onions on greens 1-2 times a week at the rate of 10 liters per 1 m². When growing onions, water in the first half of summer, and then let the heads ripen. If rainy weather was established during this period, then fungal diseases cannot be avoided. There is a way out, but it is time-consuming - to cover the beds with a film, make awnings, etc.
6. Perform pre-sowing treatment of onion sets in spring and harvest on time, dry it well in the fall.

Video: how to grow healthy onions

Preplanting treatment of the site and seeds

1. For spring planting, select a site in the fall, clear it of weeds and plant debris.
2. You can sow the site with green manure, for example, mustard, which has a phytosanitary effect on the soil, prevents the accumulation of pathogenic fungi and pests.
3. You can also spray the ground on future onion beds with a solution of copper sulfate - 40-50 g per 10 liters of water, flow rate - 1 liter per 1 m², or pour Fitosporin - 2 tbsp. l Concentrate from paste on a bucket of water.
4. Fitosporin is recommended to be added to water for watering onions during the cultivation process: 1-2 tbsp. l on a watering can every 7-10 days.

Phytosporin contains beneficial bacteria that, once in the soil, begin to compete for nutrition and place with pathogens and leave them no chance of survival.

Onion sets, even in a specialized store, can be stored in poor conditions and affected by fungi.

Methods for disinfection of onion sets before planting:

1. Thermal: pour onion set for 10-15 minutes with hot water: +45 ⁰C ... +50 ⁰C, then lower it for 10 minutes in cold.
2. Chemical: hold onions for 20 minutes in a solution of copper sulfate - 3 g per 1 liter of water.
3. Folk: for 3-5 minutes, place the bulbs in salt water (1 tbsp. Per 1 liter of water), or 5-7 minutes in an ash solution (250 g per 5 l), or 20-30 minutes in a purple solution of potassium permanganate. Then rinse the onions with clean water.
4. Modern: treat planting material with growth stimulants that help strengthen immunity and protect against diseases: Zircon, Tsitovit, Biostin, etc.

Video: onion processing before planting

There is no point in treating black onion from diseases, since fungi and viruses are not transmitted through seeds. It is cultivation from seeds that heals many crops: potatoes, onions, strawberries, etc.

Ask in stores and buy disease-resistant varieties: Centurion, Sturon, Universo, Snowball, Senshui yellow, Golden Semko, etc.

Fighting diseases during the growing season

Chemicals can only be used in the initial stage, that is, when processing planting material. For onions growing on the beds, use only methods harmless to your health:

1. At the first signs of the disease, stop nitrogen fertilizing, apply wood ash or potash fertilizers. One of the many benefits of potassium is its ability to increase disease resistance. Nitrogen provokes active growth, large young and juicy feathers appear on the onion, their delicate surface is easily vulnerable to bacteria and pests. Onions need nitrogen only at the beginning of the growing season.
2. If individual plants are affected by fungi, pull them out and burn them. Pit the remaining holes in the ground with a solution of potassium permanganate or 1% copper sulfate (100 g per 10 liters of water).
3. In case of mass infection with fungal diseases, spray onion crops with HOM solution (40 g per 10 l), repeat after 7-10 days. After processing, you can not cut the onion into a feather for 20 days.
4. In case of viral infection, remove from the beds and destroy diseased plants, including weeds with the same symptoms. Pest control.

The tips of the leaves turn yellow - this is not a disease, or why onion salt

In the process of growing onions, there is one trouble that bothers absolutely all gardeners. The tops of the leaves turn yellow, with time they completely dry up. This is not a disease, but the result of the activity of pest larvae, mainly an onion fly or nematode. They climb to the very top, because there the feather is the most soft and juicy.

The top is the most juicy part of the feather, so the pest larvae get into it and suck out the juices

The recipe for such a misfortune came to us from the last century. When the feather grows 10 cm, dissolve a glass of salt in a bucket of water, according to other sources - 100 g, and pour onion. Repeat twice more with an interval of 10 days. Readers of the Garden and Garden magazine conducted tests: part of the garden was watered with salt water, and some were not. Salt-treated onions grew better and remained green, while untreated onions lagged in growth and turned yellow.

But do not abuse this recipe. Salt corrodes everything in its path, along with larvae of pests, useful worms, for example, earthworms, die.   But it is they who loosen the earth and process plant residues into humus - food for plants. In addition, with the annual use of saline solutions, salinization occurs. Salt crystals appear on the surface, plants twist leaves, poorly develop, and acidity of the soil increases. To reduce acidity, after irrigation with salt water, give the onion fertilizer from wood ash (1 cup per bucket of water), but you will not save earthworms and beneficial bacteria from this.

To scare away pests, regularly sprinkle onion beds with tobacco. If the landing area is small, then the yellow tips with the larvae inside can be plucked by hand and burned in the grill. After that, sprinkle the onions with “vitamins” - stimulants that help to cope with stress (Energen, Epin, Novosil, etc.).

The main causes of onion disease: damp and cool weather and pests that carry viruses. But with our help, onions can resist them. To do this, you need to: select disease-resistant varieties, properly prepare the seed material and soil, and then provide the onion with good care. Strong and well-groomed plants are less likely and less affected by disease.

The expression "onion grief" is not only a well-known phraseological unit, but, unfortunately, also a statement of a sad fact.

For the richest source of useful substances and the healer of human ailments, onion, it turns out, is itself susceptible to diseases and invasions of pests.

And in this onion sorrow, only a person is able to help the most common vegetable. True, a man is still far from a complete victory over onion misfortunes.

Typical diseases

Almost fifty various microorganisms, fungi and pests in the form of insects confront onions. And the allies of this harmful horde are waterlogged, clay and floodplain soils, as well as oversaturated with rotted manure and nitrogenous mineral fertilizers. They become real custodians and sources of onion diseases.

Another serious distributor of diseases that this vegetable is susceptible to are affected bulbs planted in the ground.

Among the many diseases that a popular vegetable suffers from, the most insidious have shown to be microorganisms and fungi in the form of:

•   , or peronosporosis;
• black mold rot;
• green mold rot;
• bacterial rot;
• black mold;

Video about onion diseases and how to deal with them

Downy mildew

This scourge, also called peronosporosis, is considered the most dangerous onion disease caused by a fungus, first recorded in England in the middle of the XIX century. The fungus infects all types of onions, and the tireless attempts of breeders to develop a variety of vegetables that would be immune to this disease, until they were crowned with success.

The infection begins to spread from plants affected by the fungus. Scientists have found that in just one and a half to two months, one diseased plant can spread the infection within a radius of two kilometers.

But not only the growing onion affects this insidious fungus. Losses due to it in vegetable stores reach up to 60% of all bulbs located there.

In the beds, peronosporosis develops very quickly and in two weeks is able to affect the entire plantation of plants.

Outwardly, the disease initially looks like velvety spots of lilac-brown tint, which quickly grow in size and turn first yellow and then brown, after which places with plaque undergo necrosis and begin to die.

In the fight against this disease, the most effective preventive measures. And first of all, on plantations, it is necessary to correctly alternate the cultivation of vegetables, avoiding the re-planting of onions in the same place.

It is very seriously necessary to approach the selection, its disinfection, as well as the pre-planting sanitation of beds.

To increase the resistance of onions to attacks of a pathogenic fungus, it is useful to add vegetables in the spring with the beginning of the growing season, and after two weeks - and.

Did you know?   Onions contain more sugar than the sweetest pears and apples. Its content in the vegetable is 6% of the total mass of the bulb.

Neck rot

This dangerous, especially during storage, onion disease is also called, which reflects the color of the infected tissue of the vegetable between the scales. The disease usually begins after the collection of bulbs, but can also occur on the beds.

The main condition for its distribution is any kind of damage to the neck of the bulb, that is, in the place where the bulb passes into the leaves. Through these lesions, the fungus enters the onion turnip and infects it.

It is impossible to treat this disease, so vegetable growers are making every effort to prevent the disease. To do this, the onion crop and onion sets are carefully dried. In addition, onion sets are also disinfected, and the beds intended for onions are sanitized.

Black mold rot

The attack of black mold rot, also referred to as, is exposed to the vegetable during storage, when there is no good ventilation and there is a high temperature. As a result, the bulbs become soft, and the scales, on the contrary, dry out. Over time, a black mass appears between the flakes.

The infection is transmitted by air or transmitted from the bulb to the bulb by contact. First of all, black mold rot affects unripe bulbs, as well as poorly dried or with a thick neck.

To prevent the disease, it is recommended to dry the vegetable well, store it in cool rooms and collect only ripened onions.

Green mold rot

This type of mold rot, also referred to as penicillosisalso leads to the disease of the vegetable mainly during storage. The initial signs of the onset of the disease are brownish watery spots on the bottom of the bulbs or on their outer scales. After a while, onion turnips begin to exude a smell of mold, and under the dried scales a greenish coating begins to be observed.

The rapid development of this disease is activated due to the high humidity in the vegetable store, which took place in the freezing of the vegetable, as well as all kinds of mechanical damage.

In order to avoid the spread of this disease, the vegetable must be thoroughly dried, and five days before its laying in storage, the store should be disinfected by burning in it

Did you know? In return for tomatoes, potatoes and sunflowers brought from America, Europe paid the New World with onions brought into it. It is believed that the exchange turned out to be equivalent.

This type of disease manifests itself if the bulb is cut. Then immediately among the healthy scales, several soft dark layers are clearly visible. And the longer the vegetable is stored, the more such words appear, eventually leading to complete decay.

And insects in the form of onion flies, ticks and other pests carry this infection.

To protect yourself from this, you should disinfect the onion sets and turnip onions with a solution, for which you need to dilute 40 g of the drug in a bucket of water and treat the beds at the rate of 1 liter of solution for every 10 square meters with the mixture.

Fusarium

This fungal disease affects the vegetable on plantations and in storage. It manifests itself during the vegetation of the plant in the wilting and decay of green sprouts, and during storage - in the pinking and softening of the bottom with the appearance of rot.

   To prevent this disease, you must strictly follow the rules of crop rotation, use only healthy planting material, treat the soil before planting, quickly remove already clearly diseased plants or spray them with Hom with the first appearance of brownish spots on the leaves.

This is also a fungal disease, but it affects only the leaves. At first, an orange-yellow swollen coating appears on them, which gradually turns black. Leaves eventually die.

   In addition to competent crop rotation, in the form of disease prevention, it is recommended at a temperature of 40 ° C to warm the onion sets before planting for half a day.

It is useful during enhanced vegetation of the plant to spray it with a one percent solution.

Pests

No less than microorganisms and fungi, damage to the onion crop is caused by numerous pests in the form of insects. Not only do they spread the infection in the form of these same fungi, but they themselves directly create big problems for vegetable growers.

Among the most dangerous of these pests are usually called shallot aphids and.

Onion fly

For the prevention and elimination of this scourge, the people use proven means in the form of irrigation with salt water, or use.

The main object of attack of this pest is the forcing bow. This aphid feels especially comfortable in greenhouses, and it got its name by the name of shallots, to which it has a special predilection.

Shallot aphid is mainly located under the outer shells and on young leaves. The presence of this pest can be determined by the curvature and wilting of the leaves, as well as by a noticeable slowdown of the plant in growth.

Soaking before planting bulbs in hot water is the main type of prevention of the attack of this aphid on a vegetable.

This pest loves bulbs most of all, but does not disdain vegetable leaves. In winter, he hides in the dry flakes of onions stored in storage and greatly spoils his presentation and also the onion turnip. Affected leaves become whitish, bend, and eventually dry out.

It is quite difficult to deal with thrips, since far from all means affect it. The best recommended drugs are "VDG" and.

Prevention

Most onion diseases cannot be cured, and therefore preventive measures to prevent diseases come to the fore in vegetable growers. And the first one is the correct crop rotation.

Important!At the same place, it is recommended to plant onions no earlier than four years later.

The best predecessors of onions are tomatoes and cabbage, and it is useful to plant the beds planted with them in beds with carrots.

Initially, the Bordeaux liquid, that is, a solution of copper sulfate in milk of lime, was considered the most effective chemical means of protecting a vegetable from diseases and pests. This fungicide is still used by summer residents, however, on large farms, Bordeaux fluid was gradually replaced by zinc-containing fungicides, which act in contact and require a large consumption when used.

Important!Onion grown on a feather is not allowed to handle pesticides.

They have not lost their preventive power and are still used by gardeners proven folk remedies, such as, for example, tobacco. In the fight against the most dangerous false powdery mildew, tobacco decoction, which is prepared as follows, helps well:

1. In 10 liters of water you need to pour 400 g of tobacco.
2. The mixture is insisted for two days.
3. Then it should be boiled for two hours.
4. After this, the solution must be filtered and diluted with another ten liters of water.
5. About 100 ml of liquid soap should be added to the broth.
6. Plantings are sprayed with the resulting broth once every two weeks, repeating the procedure three to four times.

Video: spraying onions from diseases and pests   Onion, the breadwinner and his healer, himself needs reciprocal support. And this support is provided to him constantly, comprehensively and effectively, because it is equally beneficial to both parties.

Damaging onions, eat the bitter inner part of the culture, and it is not always possible to immediately notice them. As a result of such "raids" you can lose the whole crop. Fruits damaged by insects are exposed to soil microorganisms and rot. Consider the main and most common pests of onions and determine what methods are best used to deal with them in order to maximize their harvest.

   is a dangerous pest of onions. It causes significant damage during the years of mass flight at the beginning of development and the period of onion growth. The crop planted with seeds for sowing is particularly affected, because the larvae in dense stems crawl from the affected to the healthy. If onions are grown from sevka and thinning is not necessary, then the risk of infection is minimal.

An onion infected with a stem or neck rot is especially susceptible to attack by the larvae of onion and sprout flies. Usually in the middle and northwestern strip, under favorable weather conditions, it gives two generations, and in the territories of the southern regions it also has three. The main signs of damage   the plants wilt in groups at the phases of the cotyledon and first leaf: the larva passages appear in the bulb itself, and the larvae themselves live in the leaves and bases of the cotyledons. In an older plant, the neck of the bulb and the bulb itself are damaged, due to which the culture withers and decays, and then its death.

Regardless of where the fly has infiltrated, the onion will die anyway if even one or two larvae damage the growth point. Description. The adult fly has a light gray color and a body length of 6–8 mm. Wings with a yellowish tinge, legs black. The male has a dark strip located along the abdomen, and a row of setae on the hind tibia.

The eggs are elongated, white, 1.2 mm. Larvae of off-white color, vermiform; back and abdomen rounded, narrowing at the front end, body up to 10 mm long; hooked jaws. On the back segment are two dark round plates with holes for breathing. Pupa of the fly are in a brown-yellow pseudo-cocoon.

The primary spring invasion occurs during the flowering period. Reproduction occurs due to additional nectar feeding during the week.

Females lay eggs under lumps or between onion leaves of 5-20 pieces. The egg-laying period can last up to 1.5 months. Newly formed larvae gnaw through the neck of the leaves and penetrate the flesh of the bulb itself, eating its cavity, and then are able to migrate to other bulbs. Pupation of the larvae occurs after two weeks next to the damaged onion in the ground.

How to fightwith onion pests in the form of flies :

Did you know? Scientists have proven that the substances that are in the onion and can cause aroma, taste and tear from processing it negatively affect cancer cells.

Moth description. The butterfly is small in size with front brown wings, the caterpillar is greenish-yellowish and covered with small short hairs. Butterflies, like pupae, endure wintering on the remains of onions, in sheds, greenhouses. Egg laying occurs in June on the back of the leaf, bulb or flowering arrow.

Harm. Seven days later, larvae mature, which eat up the flesh of the leaves, and the skin on the outside remains untouched. The caterpillar penetrates into the bulb or into the neck and can even damage the inflorescences. Pupation of caterpillars occurs on the leaves of onions in the first period of June: in the ground, on the remains of plants. Two weeks later, butterflies form. The caterpillar is capable of causing damage to the onion throughout the entire growth period, as it can produce two or even three generations during the summer.

Control measures:

Pests of onions in the form of moths are very dangerous for the crop, so there are also many types of control against them with folk remedies:

• infusion - pour boiling water over 300 g of ash, stand, strain, add 40 g of liquid soap;
• garlic infusion - pass a large amount of garlic through a meat grinder, add 1: 1 water. Insist in a warm place for at least a week in a tightly closed container. This infusion is called uterine and can be stored for a very long time. To process with a solution: 70 g of infusion per bucket of water;
• tobacco infusion - 200 g of raw tobacco + 1 tablespoon of soap, pour hot boiled water. After it cools, strain through cheesecloth and treat the onions, and especially the soil around it, at the rate of 1 liter per square meter;
• infusion based on red capsicum - 1 kg of pepper, cut in half, boil in a pan for 10 l of water, strain after cooling. Processing is carried out at the rate of 130 g of concentrate per bucket of water + 40 g of soap. The concentrate itself should be bottled and stored in a cool, dark place.

  Such treatments are carried out in early spring several times after planting onions, usually every week. Still suitable are infusions with strong repellent aromas, etc.) Useful is considered to be rotted manure, small pine trees (chopped) pine, or Such methods also contribute to the rapid growth of onions. For the same purpose, apply at the rate of 1 tbsp. spoon per 10 liters of water and watered (4 liters of solution per 1 sq. m).

  Creeper is an infrequent pest guest, but no less harmful than a fly. Usually appears onions and harms in the second half of the growing season.

Damage   They are manifested by a lag in growth and yellowing of the leaves, and then by their withering. The bulb becomes soft and acquires an unpleasant specific odor. If a group of root eaters attacked one bulb, then it turns into a black putrefactive mass.

Description.   The stocky flies are medium sized. The female (up to 7 mm) is slightly larger than the male (up to 6 mm). In female females, the abdomen is flat, while in males the apex is slightly swollen. The body is bronze green and the back with two light gray stripes. Black tendrils. The abdomen is blue, green. The paws are brown-black or simply black. Female eggs are laid on already weakened plants, which can be damaged by other pests. Laying is done in small groups, one female brings up to 100 eggs. Control measures   same as with onion fly.

Did you know? The composition of natural sugar in onions is much higher than in pears and apples. In one onion is up to 6% sugar. Caustic substances disappear during frying and the onion becomes sweet.

Onions are a favorite treat of tobacco thrips. This pest damages both the bulb itself and the leaves. For the wintering period, lurks in dry onion scales and reduces the quality of the vegetable.

Damages fleshy scales that become rough and then completely dry. On the sheet there are whitish stripes and dark dots (bowel movements). Leaves that are severely affected completely change their color to whitish, bend and dry. Onion growth stops, the seeds are mostly unsuitable for sowing. The imago has an elongated shape with narrow wings that are folded along the entire body. The body is 1–1.5 mm, has a general yellowish color. Antennae yellow, red eyes. The front short wings are darker in tone than the rear long ones.

Eggs are white, kidney-shaped. The larva has two stages of growth. In the first, a light-colored larva feeds on a plant, with growth on the abdomen, a yellow-green intestine is visible. In the second stage, she does not eat onions, but is in the ground. Winters in dry sheets of onions in storage, or under a layer of soil in the planting area.

The female brings up to 100 eggs, which she places one in the leaf tissue under the skin. In just 3–7 days, larvae appear. Generational development in warm areas reaches 2–4 weeks.

Onion is not difficult to determine, but how to deal with them - not everyone knows, because not all chemicals affect them. The most effective in practice experienced gardeners have shown themselves:

Important! Two close treatments in time with an interval of not more than 7 days should be observed. The reason for this is that the eggs and nymphs are highly resistant to drugs, or the drug may not immediately reach them.

  Harmful by foci. In the southern lane it can give two generations, and in the middle lanes it usually gives one. An onion rattle can often be confused with a lily; their difference is only that the lily has black legs and a head, and the onion has red.

Damages   onions, gnawing through holes, as a result of which the leaves break. An adult is able to penetrate into the tubular sheet.

Description. Bugs are completely bright red, only the tip of the abdomen is black, 6 mm in length. Eggs 1 mm long, orange, smooth. The larva is six-legged, on the sides of the dots are black, the color itself is off-white. Paws, head and chest shield are black. Around the larva a mass of brown color is formed due to the fact that it covers itself with excrement.

How to process onions from these pests: to combat the rattle, they use drugs used in integrated phytophage abundance management systems - Proclame, Spintor (use according to the instructions).

Description. A bug up to 3 mm long. At the end of the head there is a "proboscis" bent down. The antennae are club-shaped, at the end thickened, articulated. The body is black, but due to the white scales it seems gray. There is a white strip along the elytra. Paws are red-brown.

White eggs, round, small - up to 0.5 mm. The female lays them in April, and within two weeks larvae appear that can damage 100% of the onion leaves. In one leaf can be from 7 to 17 larvae. Larvae are yellow, with a brown head, without legs, up to 7 mm. Then, through the leaves, the larva gnaws the path into the bulb, and from it leaves the ground and begins to pupate. The larval development stage lasts up to one month. The bug hibernates in lumps of soil and under dried grass. Wakes up in early spring.

Damages   initially diseased sprouted bulbs that have not been removed from the site, then switches to new crops. He pierces onion leaves with his nose and eats pulp. Affected leaves acquire whitish, rounded spots, similar to needle pricks. Then the leaves dry out and the plant dies. Catastrophically affected onion crops planted with seeds.

Most effective protection against   is the regular loosening of the soil in order to break the "earthen cradle" of pupae and wintering of the bug itself.

  Extremely dangerous for onions, in very infected areas there was a complete destruction of the crop.

Description. The stem nematode is a filiform small worm, its structure can be seen with a microscope, length up to 1.5 mm, and width 0.04 mm. The body ends are narrowed, and in the mouth there is an acicular stylet (hollow, passing into the esophagus), thanks to which it is able to suck the juice from plants. At the base, the stylet has three bulges that look like a ball. Eggs are not visible to the naked eye, and their sizes are measured in microns.

It can winter in the soil, in the onion itself and its seeds. In dried plants, it remains viable for up to five years, and when it enters a humid environment, it regains its vital activity.

Harm. It enters the onion both through the leaves and through the bulb itself from the bottom. At the age of the larva and in the phase of the adult worm, it feeds on plants. Egg deposition also occurs in onion tissues. Damage to the plant as soon as it begins to grow.

Damaged bowin the early phase of growth has a sluggish appearance, and the lesion sites differ in thinner areas. When infected at a later stage of vegetation, the onion can have a healthy appearance, sometimes it differs by the appearance of white spots. But inside it is friable, the scales do not fit tightly to each other, the granularity of the structure of fleshy scales appears, in the lesion sites it is more refined and pigmented with white and brown spots. The onions may crack and the inner scales bulge out. Such a plant rots at high humidity, or dries quickly - at low.

Usually striking from mid-summer. How to process the onion from pests such as nematode worms is a difficult question, because the fight against the nematode rarely leads to its complete destruction. Drugs that can destroy it are very toxic to the plant itself. The main principle of removing the nematode is prevention:

• not to plant several years in a row plants that are prone to invasion of the nematode in the same place;
• during harvesting, carefully select seed onions and repeat them in the spring before planting;
• produce deep loosening of the soil at the landing site;
• before planting onions into the ground, apply contact poisons in small doses.

Nematode does not tolerate temperatures above 40 ° C, so an effective way to fight before landing is to soak the onion sets in water to 55 ° C for 15–20 minutes. Such a method will not harm the culture, but will destroy the nematode.

Did you know? Fresh onion juice is very nutritious and healthy, perhaps for these reasons it attracts various pests.

  Most often, it strikes the onion intensively during storage. Often it enters the bulb from the bottom, but can also penetrate through damage caused by other pests. Settles between the scales of the bulb, and it gradually begins to rot.

Description of the pest.Female up to 0.2 mm long, elongated body, white, has two pairs of legs, which are located in front of the body. Shield without visor, semicircular. On the skin, annular grooves: dorsal - up to 87, abdominal - up to 76. Larvae are smaller and with fewer rings. One egg is laid per day, 1 female is able to lay up to 25 eggs. Maturation occurs in three days at a temperature above 10 ° C. In cold conditions, they slow down their vital activity, under favorable conditions they multiply, and at temperatures above 18 ° C they spread to other bulbs.

Signs dwelling in onions. Yellow or green pigmentation appears on the inner scales. When drying during storage, the pigments are more noticeable. During the growing season, the leaves turn yellow, curl, look like affected by chlorosis, lag behind in growth.

Basis struggle   is prevention:

Scoops

There are leaf-gnawing and gnawing ones. The first ones feed on tops, and the second ones are in the ground and gnaw on the bulb itself. Usually active at night, and during the day are in a phase of immobility.

Description. An adult is represented by a butterfly up to 5 cm in wingspan. The front wings are brown in color with transverse white stripes, and the hind wings are light brown in color.

The eggs are dark gray. hemispherical. One butterfly can lay up to 40 eggs. The larva appears after 12 days. Larva: a green caterpillar on the sides with yellow stripes, sometimes gray-green or yellow-green. In warm regions it gives two generations.

Damage. Larvae sprawl and gnaw leaves, are able to bite into the bulb itself. A damaged onion gives off an unpleasant odor and rots.

Fight:

  Onion pests cause great damage, and the fight against them lasts for many centuries, so there are many folk remedies. One of them is treatment with a solution during its flowering: 300 g of chopped wormwood per 1 cup of wood ash and a tablespoon of grated soap pour 10 liters of boiling water, cover and insist for one week. Spray at the end of the settling period.

Shallot aphids

Description. Brown body, ovoid body shape. Larvae of dark shades of yellow or green. Eyes are brownish-black. Developed antennal tubercles, converge in front and in size longer than the body. The spitz of the sixth segment and 4–5 segments are black, and the rest are of the same color as the body. The tubes are light, cylindrical, taper to the apex, ending with a dark funnel. The tubules are 8 times less than the length.

Signs of damage. The leaves fade, bend, the culture lags behind in growth. The leaf feather going to the green is contaminated with feces of aphids and the skins that the larva discards. Itself is located on the leaves, under the outer shell of the onion.

The main protective measures   are agricultural practices:

Following some tips, you can prevent infection of onions with pests.

1. Compliance with the cultural revolution (plant onions in their original place no earlier than 5 years).
2. Carrying out crops on time with zoned varieties.
3. Autumn and spring digging of the landing site.
4. Disinfection with copper sulfate solution before planting.

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This valuable vegetable crop is susceptible to a host of infections. About fifty species of fungi and pests cause all kinds of onion diseases. Moreover, they hit him both in open ground and in greenhouses. To deal with this, you need to approach the problem in a comprehensive manner, including the processing of plantings by special means, and the precise implementation of agricultural technologies. Very often, onions are sick on waterlogged clay soils saturated with mineral fertilizers and overripe manure containing a large amount of nitrogen.

Onion Disease Treatment

Until now, scientists have not found those reliable mechanisms that would prevent the development of epidemics, although the search for ways to destroy or at least weaken the activity of microorganisms that affect onions is ongoing. During the growing season, at the first sign of infection, fungicides are used. The effectiveness of the applied pesticides, their doses and the number of treatments depend on how the disease develops. The most rational and popular way to use pesticides is to dress or treat planting material. How is it processed? Until now, as in the 20s of the last century, application is actual, especially in private households of Bordeaux liquid. Today there are substitutes for it - contact zinc-containing fungicides. Previously, contact fungicides, effective at high consumption rates, were used to protect onions. Later, systemic drugs began to be used, showing high efficiency at high consumption rates at the initial stage of their use.

When growing onions in greenhouses, the risk of contracting certain infections is reduced. In such rooms it is easier to regulate humidity and maintain the required temperature. In case of ventilation and constant air circulation, mold and fungus will not appear. However, it will not work out completely to get rid of diseases. For example, peronosporosis can cause harm in the greenhouse as well as in the field.

General moments of growing onions (including onions), see the infographic.

  (click to enlarge)

The main diseases of onions

1. Powdery mildew. This bacterial infection is also called peronosporosis. It manifests itself in a change in the shape of the bulbs and the cessation of their development. The causative agent of peronosporosis is a fungus that affects the leaves of the plant, on which a yellow coating appears, after which they gradually begin to die.

Treatment:

• Fertilizers from phosphorus and potassium. Thanks to them, the vegetable will increase resistance to infection, increase protection against the disease.
• Preventive treatment with fugicides.
• Inadmissibility when growing onions thickening planting. Also, weed growth should not be allowed.
• When the first signs of powdery mildew appear, it is necessary to stop watering the crop and feeding the soil with nitrogen fertilizers. Remove the bulbs formed by then and dry them in the sun for two weeks. Peronosporosis develops in bad weather conditions.
• Such drugs are effective against this disease: “Ordan”, “Alirin-B”, “Quadris”, “Abiga-Peak”, “Bravo”, “Revus”, etc.

1. Gray (cervical) rot.   Signs of this dangerous onion disease are a gradual lesion of scales near the neck. This occurs through the soil or after harvesting in the garden or in the greenhouse. The infection spreads after rains or with pests.

Treatment:

• Use when growing exceptionally healthy material; choice for sowing early varieties.
• Fertilizing the soil with nitrogen fertilizers, and at the end of ripening, the use of potassium and phosphorus.
• The use of drugs “Bravo”, “Quadrice”, “Ridomil Gold”, “Switch”, etc.

It should be remembered: if during the growing season of plants they are subjected to constant treatment with systemic fungicides, then resistant strains of pathogens may occur and the effectiveness of the drugs will decrease.

1. Fusarium This is a fungal disease in which the onion of the bulb softens and the root system dies. The leaves turn yellow, and the bulb gradually dies. Fusarium is provoked by an onion fly, which damages the bulb, and during storage it begins to rot.

Treatment:

Before sowing onions, the soil must be treated. Planting material should be used exclusively of high quality. Affected plants must be destroyed immediately, and the rest should be treated with a special drug.Before planting, the onion sets must be etched by immersing it for 20 minutes in a three percent suspension of the fungicide TMDT.

It is important to follow the rules of crop rotation: secondly, you can plant onions on former beds only after 3-4 years. Well, if his predecessors will be crops.You can chalk the soil, feed it with dolomite flour. To protect against fusarium, potassium permanganate with the addition of boric acid, these non-concentrated solution can abundantly water the plants under the root. Horsetail broth and ash infusion helps well.Before putting the onions in storage, the bulbs are cleaned of scales. If there were patients among them, spray the remaining ones with Fitosporin and dry.

Methods of struggle. Before planting the seeds must be warmed up. And before cleaning for storage for 18 hours, withstand at a temperature of + 45 ° C.Do not plant nearby different varieties of onions. Be sure to remove all weeds on the site in time. Observe crop rotation rules.

1. Mosaic of onions. This disease is caused by a virus. Signs: small yellow-white spots in the form of stripes appear on the leaves. Then the leaves change their appearance, which indicates a lack of nutrients, and then begin to fade and dry. Inflorescences are sharply deformed on the testes. Instead of flowers, small bulbs appear. In bulbs affected by an elongated mosaic, they do not reach maturity, and begin to sprout in the fall. The carriers of this virus are ticks, nematodes, aphids, living in the soil.

Methods of struggle. It is necessary to isolate perennial onions and testes from onion turnips. Regularly remove plants affected by mosaics. After harvesting, warm the bulbs at a temperature of 40-42 ° C for 10 hours.

1. Onion jaundice. The leaves of the onion affected by this viral disease become spotty, arrows turn yellow in the onion. Jaundice is not subject to treatment. The fight against it is the regular removal of diseased specimens, and at the same time all weeds. Plants are sprayed.
2. Stemphyliosis of onion.Fungal disease. It begins with the fact that small light yellow or brown watery spots appear on the leaves, gradually developing into elongated tubercles. Then along the edges they darken, stick together over time, hitting the whole sheet.

Protective measures. Compliance with agricultural practices, pest control and causes leading to the death of onion leaves.

1. White rot of the bottom of the onion. This disease affects onions in the soil, and especially during storage. The leaves of young plants begin to turn yellow and die. Seedlings often die. Onions die off from the ends of the leaves down. White cotton deposits and soft rot appear on the scales and roots of young onions, on the surface of which tiny black round sclerotia form. Sometimes the disease can be detected only during harvesting.

Protective measures:

• alternate cultures;
• remove diseased bulbs, plant debris during harvesting and storage;
• maintain the necessary soil moisture;
• use high-quality planting material, disinfect it with the help of preparations containing copper.

1. Gray neck rot. Fungal disease. It is especially evident when storing onions. Sometimes when harvesting and growing testes. Sign: the neck of the onion softens and weakens, a fluffy gray coating forms on it, which turns into a powdery mass. Later, tiny black sclerotia appear in it. If the disease develops, the whole bulb is covered with a coating. Onions are infected before or during harvest (when cutting leaves).

Protective measures:

• removal of plant debris;
• sorting onion seedlings with signs of illness;
• crop rotation (onions can be planted in the old place only after 3 years);
• isolation of sites with onions of different ages;
• suitable storage conditions.

Video "Onion diseases"

An indicative video that will answer many questions about onion diseases.

Other fungal onion diseases

Anthracnose	Cercosporosis	Aspargillosis
It appears at the end of the growing season. Brown spots with a dark border appear on the leaves. On the shoots there are light brown spots with a brown rim. Pathogen - phytopathogenic fungus   Colletotrichum capsici. Bean, tomatoes, berry crops, grapes are sick of them.	Onion leaves appear chlorotic spots with a yellow rim. In wet weather, the affected tissue is covered with an olive coating. The causative agent is a mushroom Cercospora duddiae Welles. It is found in soybeans, table beets, grapes.	This disease is also called "black rot of onions." Onions are affected when stored improperly. The bulbs gradually soften and mummify. The causative agent of mold fungus genus Aspergillus. It is found on garlic.

How to protect onions from fungal diseases

• Careful destruction of plant debris.
• Compliance with crop rotation.
• Discarding planting material with rot symptoms.
• Landing early.
• Fertilizer culture in compliance with the dose and timing.
• Harvesting onions in dry weather.
• Obligatory drying of onions before storage.

Pest diseases

1. Onion fly. It penetrates the fruits in the form of larvae. From this onion stops its growth and begins to rot. Feathers turn yellow and dry.

Methods of struggle:

• Spray the soil around the onion with a solution of salt (300 g per 10 l of water). Repeat the procedure every 10 days. Watering under the root, but do not touch the leaves.
• Plant onions far from where you used to grow them.

1. Root tick. When infected, the onion begins to rot, a fungus appears. Therefore, it will be necessary to fight with the pest and the fungus.

Methods of struggle:

• on a site infected with a tick, do not grow onions for 3 years;
• heat the onion;
• spray the plants with a 0.2 percent solution of celtan.

1. Onion moth

The butterfly gnaws the leaf, creating strokes in the tissues, due to which the leaves die off.

Control measures:

• spray the onion;
• remove plant debris;
• deeply loosen and dig up the soil.

1. Stem nematode:

This is a small filiform worm 1-1.5 millimeters long, laying eggs in the roots of onions, after which its heads crack. Onion leaves are deformed.

Control measures:

• select uninfected seed;
• heal onion set in hot (+ 45-46 ° С) water for 10 minutes, in water at a temperature of 50-52 ° С - 5-10 minutes, at a temperature of 55-57 ° С - 3-5 minutes. Or soak the onions for 3 days in water at a temperature of 16-18 ° C.

1. Onion thrips . It is a light yellow or dark brown small insect with fringed wings, a narrow oblong body. Trips along with their larvae sucks the juice from inflorescences and leaves, after which they are deformed, turn yellow and dry.

Methods of struggle:

• it is necessary to alternate cultures;

• before planting, disinfect the bulbs in hot (45 ° C) water for 10 hours, then cool them in cold water;

• soak the bulbs for 24 hours in a 2% solution of sodium nitrate;

• after harvesting, dry the onion for 5-7 days at a temperature of 35-37 ° C.

• In autumn, carefully destroy plant debris, and dig the soil.

1. Onion secretive hunter.   Black beetle with white scales 2-2.5 mm long. From the leaves he gnaws small holes. Females lay eggs inside the leaf. Larvae appear after 5-16 days and feed on leaves. Then they pupate and in the beginning of July, beetles appear from them., Feeding onions.

Control measures:

It is necessary to trim and destroy the leaves affected by the larvae, while feeding and watering the onions. During the period of mass pupation, the larvae should loosen the soil. And in a timely manner to collect with subsequent destruction of plant debris.

1. Onion grub. A greenish-bronze fly 6.5 to 9 millimeters long. She eats the flesh of the bulb. From July to September, two generations of germs live, damaging the bow.

You need to deal with it in the same way as with the onion fly.

Onion Disease Prevention

• Before you start growing onions, you should prepare a greenhouse or disinfect the soil in the garden.
• Observe crop rotation. After harvesting, ensure comfortable storage conditions for onions.
• Harvest after full maturity. Harvested onions should be well dried before being stored.

Video "The folk way to fight insects and diseases"

An indicative video with a good example of using the folk method to combat pests and diseases of onions.

Question answer

1. What can be planted on the garden after a bow?

Experts advise: If you mean a full one-year crop rotation, then after onions you can plant cucumbers, zucchini, beets, carrots. And after harvesting the onions in August, it is good to sow salad, Beijing cabbage, spinach. And in September - radish, which does not like the "long day". So, he still has time to mature and give you a new crop.

1. What diseases is onion contraindicated for?

With diseases of the kidneys, liver, as well as acute gastrointestinal diseases. With cardiovascular ailments, do not abuse onions in large quantities.

A bulb that can kill germs and relieve people from a cold, cough and other diseases can also hurt and rot for various reasons.

Onion diseases during cultivation are not uncommon if the main rules (disinfection, frequency of irrigation, etc.) were not observed during planting and care. We learn how onion plants are sick, what are the causes of their diseases, and how to cope with them in order to get a good harvest.

The main diseases of onions

With an onion mosaic, yellowish stripes appear on the leaves of the onion, and the feather itself becomes wavy or corrugated. Plants wither, lie down and die.

This viral disease is transmitted by ticks and aphids, so they need to be destroyed immediately as soon as they appear on the plants. The disease itself is not treated: we remove diseased plants from the ridges and destroy.

Most often, onions get sick with Fusarium rot of the ground - an infectious disease, the source of which is in the ground. The ends of the onions are affected by the infection during the growth period: the onion soon loses its leaves, its roots rot.

Causes of the disease

• Waterlogging of the soil during bulb ripening.
• Belated harvesting.
• Harvesting onions in the rain.
• Arid weather at the time of onion ripening, when the soil overheats.

Weakened plants affected by pests are especially quickly affected by Fusarium rot.

Prevention and treatment of onion disease during cultivation

• We plant quality seedlings or seedlings from seeds in ridges, exposing planting material to disinfection.

If there are spots or rotten places on seedlings or onions from seedlings, we discard them immediately.

• We grow mainly early ripe or mid-ripening onion varieties: they are less susceptible to fusarium.
• We follow all the rules for the care of onion plants during the cultivation process, both in seedlings and in open ground.

We pay special attention to loosening and weeding so that there is constant oxygen access to the roots of the bulbs.

• We do not delay harvesting and carefully dry the onion, discarding diseased bulbs.

Having discovered a diseased onion, we immediately tear it out of the ground and destroy it, after which we process the beds of Bordeaux liquid (1% solution).

Neck rot

Bulbs are usually affected when leaves fall, especially if it is warm and raining. But more often this disease is detected in a month - one and a half after the start of storage of the crop.

The neck and scales of the onion, affected by the pathogen, become watery and pinkish-yellow, which is especially noticeable with longitudinal cutting of the bulbs. The bulbs are affected more and more deeply, and their shell is covered with a gray mold with dark sclerotia, turning into a black crust with a tuberous surface.

Prevention and control of neck rot

• We follow the same preventive measures that are recommended for fusarium.
• We remove diseased plants from the ridges as soon as we detect the disease.

Before laying for storage, we warm the crop at 30-40 degrees during the day, then 20 hours at 45 degrees. If possible, we process onions with chalk.

Wet bacterial rot

Onions are affected by bacterial rot by the end of the growing season. On the pen, small, invisible, weeping wounds form. The disease spreads to the bulbs and destroys them from the inside.

If you longitudinally cut the bulb affected by wet rot, you will see several soft, translucent scales that feel as if covered with mucus. Sick scales alternate with healthy ones.

Subsequently, the rot takes possession of the whole bulb: it smells disgusting and rot completely.

Onion diseases when grown, such as wet rot, arise for the following reasons:

• The bulb is damaged when loosening, knocking out or harvesting, or receives a sunburn.
• When the bulbs ripen, sharp weather changes are observed. For example, a too rapid transition from warm, humid to arid weather results in accelerated drying of leaves and metabolic disorders.
• The infection is thrips, onion fly, or ticks.

To avoid wet rot, we use decontaminated seeds and onions during planting, loosely and re-cultivate carefully, without touching the bulbs themselves, and destroy the pests if they appear.

The rust caused by the fungus affects the onion feather: it becomes covered with yellowish bulges intended for the maturation of mushroom spores. Subsequently, the onion ceases to grow - both the feather and the onion.

The fungus appears on the onions if leaves and weeds remain on the ridges for the winter: he is not afraid of any frost.

Onion Rust Prevention and Control

• Harvesting tops and other plant residues from ridges after harvesting.
• Prevention of excessive density of onion plantings.
• Careful care for onions in accordance with all the rules.
• Watering under the pen, not on top.

Noticing diseased plants, immediately remove them from the beds.

  - a fungal disease that affects the aerial part: the leaves grow poorly, turn yellow for no reason, wither and dry, flower stalks break.

Causes of occurrence: ingress of fungus from plant debris left after harvesting on ridges, from untreated seeds and seeds. Especially often peronosporosis manifests itself at the beginning of the growing season, especially in rainy weather.

How to prevent the onset of the disease

• We disinfect planting material, remove plant residues from the ridges without leaving them for the winter, and do not plant onions in the same place every year.

After harvesting the tops and weeds, we process the ridges with a one percent solution of Bordeaux fluid.

• We do not abuse nitrogen fertilizers - we prefer mineral fertilizing.
• With prolonged rains, set arcs and close the ridges with polyethylene.

We remove and destroy the diseased onion, process the ridge with Bordeaux liquid.

  - a fungal disease that affects the bulb when sowing seeds to the north, especially if the onion is grown every year in the same area.

Young leaflets are covered with elongated bulges with gray or black stripes, which soon form on young onions, when cut through, dark gray spores are visible.

How to deal with bunt

• We observe crop rotation without planting onions on the same ridges for two to three years.
• Before sowing, we treat the soil with Bordeaux liquid, disinfect the seeds with potassium permanganate or fungicides.

Sick plants are removed from the ridges and destroyed. We spill the soil with a one percent solution of Bordeaux fluid.

As you can see, onion diseases during cultivation cause a significant blow to the future crop. It is much easier to prevent the development of such diseases, observing the rules of planting and care, because they are incurable.