Strawberry breeding care. Features of strawberry care in spring, summer and winter. Berry protection from dirt

To get the maximum harvest of strawberries (strawberry garden), it is necessary to properly care for it. Agricultural technology can correct many mistakes made during planting, as well as identify all the advantages of the variety. With improper care, strawberries give small sour berries, and varietal differences are nullified.

This strawberry was properly looked after.

Acquaintance with Strawberries

Strawberry is a perennial plant grown for the sake of berries. The plantation gives high yields of no more than 4 years, then the berries are smaller, their taste becomes sour. Although the bushes, with proper care, can live for more than 20 years, there will be few yields from them.

Horns

Outlets (horns) at the bush are about 30 pieces. The older the bush, the larger the number of horns.
it consists, their number depends on the care and grade. The growth of outlets begins after the end of fruiting, every year they form higher and higher above the ground. Strong strawberry bushes have many horns, weak - few.

Peduncles appear from the tops of rosettes, respectively, the lush the bush, the more abundant flowering and fruiting. At the bottom of the outlet, they grow together into one small stem, on which the adventitious roots form. Powerful bushes lay a lot of peduncles, bloom for a longer time and the yield from them is higher.

Strawberry bush structure diagram

Mustache

The strongest mustache plants give in the first year of cultivation, with each year, the mustard formation becomes weaker, while the mustache becomes smaller. By the fourth year, strawberries usually no longer give a mustache. If someone receives vegetative shoots from their 5-6 year old plantation, this is because it was poorly looked after and there are bushes of different ages, and mustache gives young rooted plants.

Vegetative shoots begin to form when the length of daylight more than 12 hours and a temperature above 15 ° C. The laying of flower buds in rooted mustaches takes place after 2-3 months (therefore, during the autumn planting of buds, very few are laid, they do not have time to mature and the yield for the next year is low).

Berries

The quality of strawberries is influenced by several factors.

Soil composition. In strawberries growing on poor soils, the taste is less pronounced than when grown on fertile lands.
Weather. The more direct sun falls on the bushes, the sweeter the berries. Strawberries growing under the crowns of trees, as you don’t care for, usually have sour berries.
Grade. Most European strawberry varieties are sweeter than domestic ones.

Properties of berries.

Berries ripped by unripe ones turn red during transportation and storage, however they will not be completely sweet.
The taste characteristic of the berry variety is acquired only if it is fully ripened on the bush. To reveal the taste, completely reddened berries are not removed for 2-3 days. Such berries are not suitable for storage or transportation, but their taste is fully manifested.
To obtain maximum yields, the berries are ripened unripe, as this stimulates the growth of the remaining ovaries. As a result, strawberry yield increases.
Unripe berries of any variety have the same sweet and sour taste.

On a personal site, where good taste is more valued than increasing the yield by 300-500 g, it is better to let the strawberries fully ripen and try their true taste. But in wet weather, the berries should not be fully ripe, since it is the ripe berries that are affected by rot and mold in the first place.

Advantages and disadvantages of culture

The main advantages of strawberries.

Strawberries can produce good yields with very small doses of fertilizer and easy care. The main thing is to fertilize the soil well before planting the crop.
Annual harvests. Strawberries have no fruiting frequency, as in some other berries (for example, raspberries).
Quickly get your first crop.
Very simple and easy breeding. A bush is able to give several dozen mustaches in a season, from which the best are selected and root them. During the summer, you can plant a bed of the most valuable varieties.
Unpretentiousness of plants. Strawberries can grow under the crowns of young trees, in flower beds, among weeds (but yields in such thickets are reduced).

Disadvantages of culture.

Defeat gray rot. Most modern varieties are quite resistant to this disease, but with improper care you can lose up to a third of the crop. Domestic varieties are more resistant to the disease than European ones.
Insufficient strawberry self-fertility. For a good setting of berries on the plot, several different varieties are grown.
Winter hardiness is the ability not only to tolerate negative temperatures, but also winter thaws without being damaged. In domestic varieties, it is quite high, the loss of bushes in spring is negligible. European strawberry varieties have lower winter hardiness, plants freeze, and in severe winters they freeze completely. But some imported varieties successfully grow in our conditions; in winter, the bushes are covered, which somewhat reduces the loss of plants.
Short fruiting period. The maximum yield of the berry gives 3-4 years, then it must be completely updated.

All the shortcomings of the berry are overcome, the main thing is not to leave strawberries without proper care.

Features of growing and caring for strawberries

The main components of proper care are:

weeding;
loosening;
water regime;
top dressing.

Strawberry care is simple, but requires patience and systematic.

Weeding strawberry beds

Planting strawberries should always be free of weeds. This culture does not like competitors and in case of overgrowing of the plot gives small sour berries. Weeding is carried out as weeds grow, 6-8 times per season.

Simultaneously with the removal of weeds, the mustache is also trimmed, especially in the spring. If you remove them in time, then the plants will switch to flowering, otherwise all the power of the bushes will go into bridging and there will be no berries.

Loosening

Strawberries love loose, well-permeable soil. There should always be free air access to the roots. Before flowering, the soil is loosened 3 times, and after picking berries - every 2 weeks. If the weather is rainy and the earth quickly condenses, then loosening is carried out more often. They cultivate the earth to a depth of 3-4 cm.

Starting from the second year, strawberry bushes spud, as additional roots appear on the stem. Hilling stimulates root formation, the growth of horns, the bushes become more magnificent, which gives an increase in yield.

How to water strawberries

The most demanding strawberry is moisture in June, when berries, mustaches and leaves grow simultaneously. If the weather is dry, then the plot is watered every 2-3 days to a depth of 30 cm, and if possible, then every day.

It is better to irrigate between rows, for which purpose a furrow is made in the middle of the bed during planting, which will collect water when snow melts and during watering. The plants are not watered under the root, since the root system of the strawberry is sprawling and the bulk of the roots are located on the periphery of the aerial part of the plant.

After harvesting, the plants begin the second peak of root formation and foliage growth. At this time, the plot is watered 1-2 times a week. If there is no rain, then watering is carried out daily. Before flowering and after it, the bushes can be watered by sprinkling, strawberries are very fond of high humidity.

Before flowering, strawberry plantations can be watered with rain.

During flowering and fruiting, only aisles are watered, the water temperature should not be lower than 15 ° С. The rest of the time, plants tolerate watering with cold water well.

In the fall, pre-winter water-charging is done. The earth is shed to a depth of 30-50 cm. Wet soil protects strawberries better from frost, so it is necessary that the plot go wet under the snow.

During flowering and ovary growth in the event of rainy weather, strawberries suffer from waterlogging. Signs of this are the appearance on the leaves and ovaries of large brown spots (without spoiling). Waterlogging of strawberry plantations is especially common on dense clay soils. The roots cannot provide normal nutrition of the aerial parts and the bushes begin to shed the largest berries.

When signs of oxygen starvation appear, deep loosening is carried out (5-7 cm). If the berry is experiencing constant waterlogging, then the beds are raised to 15-20 cm. When there are no ovaries on the strawberry, it does not suffer from waterlogging, but, on the contrary, gives lush foliage and a powerful mustache.

Strawberry dressing with folk remedies (ash, chicken droppings)

Strawberries with berries removes quite a lot of nutrients from the soil, these are not only the main nutrients (NPK), but also trace elements that need to be replenished. Lack of nutrition begins to appear in the second year of cultivation, in the first year the plants have enough fertilizers introduced before planting.

Lack of nutrition is never manifested in any one element, therefore, complex fertilizers containing trace elements are always applied to the plot. It is better to feed strawberries with organic fertilizers, since they act more gently and continuously.

In the first year of cultivation, if the soil was properly prepared, fertilizers do not apply. In the second and subsequent years, the berry is fed 2 times per season. In spring, ash is deposited on the surface of the soil around the bushes, and then the soil is loosened loosely. On infertile soils in May, humates, humus or

Do not add ash with manure, as a chemical reaction occurs, which releases a large amount of nitrogen, which can damage plants.

To prepare the herbal infusion, the grass is placed in a plastic barrel, filled with water and left to roam for 10-15 days. At the end of fermentation, 1 liter of infusion is diluted in 10 liters of water and watered bushes at the rate of 1 liter per plant.

After harvesting, strawberries begin a second wave of root and leaf regrowth, and at this time it needs nitrogen. Feeding is done with a solution of mullein or bird droppings (1 l / 10 l of water). Bird droppings for strawberries are preferable, now they are sold in garden stores. This is the most concentrated fertilizer in terms of nutrients.

In the case of excessive use of organics, overfeeding and fatliquoring of strawberry bushes may occur. With proper fertilizer application, an increase in the size of leaves and berries occurs, and productivity increases.

Excess nitrogen is manifested in the appearance of large leaves and chopped berries, plant productivity is significantly reduced. Overfeeding occurs due to the frequent use of herbal fertilizer or non-compliance with the norms of making other organic fertilizers.

To prevent the fatliquoring of plants with organic matter (except for manure and compost), ash is added that does not contain nitrogen and creates a predominance of potassium and phosphorus in the soil. Plants fed with nitrogen do not tolerate winter well and are more affected by diseases and pests.

Malnutrition for strawberries (and not only for it) is better than overfeeding, as in this case the situation is easier to fix.

Do I need to feed strawberries with yeast, iodine, boric acid and ammonia

Top dressing with folk remedies (yeast, iodine, boric acid, ammonia) is extremely undesirable for a culture.

Firstly, it is monofertilizer that does not provide plants with a whole set of microelements.

Secondly, the bushes can be easily overfed, (especially ammonia), which will cause significant damage to the plantation.

Thirdly, iodine, boric acid and ammonia are volatile solutions that evaporate quickly, they must be immediately washed out into the lower layers of the soil, which is impossible with a large area of \u200b\u200bthe plot.

Fourth, yeast is an excellent protein food for animals, but does not contain any plant nutrients.

Fertilizer strawberry plantation should be systemic, fully provide the plants with the necessary elements, and no experiments with top dressing are unacceptable.

Strawberry Plantation Care

Regular care is the basis of a high yield. Strawberries with proper agricultural technology in the first year can give up to 300 g of large berries from the bush. On the garden site you need to have four plots (beds) of strawberries: the first, second, third and fourth years of fruiting.

How to care for strawberry seedlings

When planting seedlings, no fertilizer is applied. The soil must be fertilized in advance. The just-planted mustache is shaded from the sun, otherwise seedlings will wither, since the roots cannot yet make up for the loss of water, which is lost when its leaves evaporate. Withering is not very dangerous for seedlings, with the onset of evening coolness they will straighten out.

For shading, the mustache is covered with newspapers, a white cloth or a little grass is put on them. After 2-3 days, the shelter is removed, by this time the plants are already rooted and can independently extract water from the soil. In the early days, a landed mustache is well watered. In the future, the ground under the young bushes should always be wet. In the case of warm and dry autumn, strawberries are watered once a week.

It is important to prevent strawberries from overgrowing with weeds. If this is not done in the year of planting, then in the future the fight against them will become much more complicated. Weed plants will sprout through the bushes and it will not be possible to remove them without damaging the crop.

Young strong mustache after rooting themselves begin to give a mustache, which must be removed, since they weaken the plant and interfere with its preparation for winter.

Preparing strawberry beds for winter

European varieties require special care when preparing the plot for winter, since they are less hardy. In autumn, if the weather is dry, carry out water-charging irrigation. Water protects rhizomes well from freezing, conducting heat from below to the roots of plants.

For winter, it is better to warm strawberries.

For a better wintering, strawberries are insulated, laying out fallen foliage and needles under the bushes and in the aisles of straw. They cover only bare ground, the plants themselves do not need to be covered, since they go away in the winter with leaves, which themselves are a heater.

The main thing in winter is to prevent freezing of the roots. If there is no insulation, then in the aisles and under the bushes they sprinkle the earth with a layer of 3-4 cm.

Spring Strawberry Care

In the spring, after snow melt, dry leaves are cut off from the bushes, the insulation (if used) is removed from the garden, weed from the first weeds and loosened. Old bushes, which have a small lignified trunk with additional roots, additionally spud to make them more powerful. Large plants have better flowering and higher yields.

Loosening is carried out to a depth of 2-3 cm, since the roots of the strawberries are shallow. With this treatment, the earth warms up faster and plants start to grow.

The main task in the spring is to ensure rapid heating of the soil so that the plants more likely grow foliage and begin flowering. At the early start of the growing season, flowering will occur in more humid soil. For the quickest warming up of the earth, you can put a black film in the aisles.

Some gardeners, on the contrary, do not remove the insulation for a long time, fearing frost damage to strawberries. But, firstly, frosts are not terrible for her in spring, and secondly, strawberries bear fruit from mid-June to mid-July (depending on the variety), and in May she needs time to prepare for flowering. The better she is prepared, the larger the berries will be.

Dry leaves must be removed in the spring so that the earth warms up faster.

Old dry leaves, along with last year's mustache, are removed, but young foliage does not need to be trimmed. Pruning green leaves in the spring delays flowering for 2 weeks (until new ones grow), the plant spends a lot of effort on growing foliage, because of this the berries are smaller.

In dry warm spring, when the earth quickly dries up, watering is carried out. After the growth of young leaves, do spring dressing.
If plants are weakened after winter, grow poorly, they are sprayed with Zircon or Epin growth stimulant.

What should be the care of strawberries after harvest

After fruiting, the spring leaves look yellow and spotty, they are removed along with overgrown mustaches and weeds. All foliage cannot be mowed, because the roots growing at this time require starch, which comes just from the leaves, if removed, this will slow down the preparation of strawberries for winter.

After harvesting, a second top dressing is mandatory to replenish the nutrients taken out with the berries.

In the second half of summer, mustaches grow more actively in strawberries. In no case should they be allowed to root. They condense plantings and weaken the bushes, which leads to a decrease in yield and taste of berries.

If the bushes are intended for fruiting, then all the mustache that appears is cut off from them. The plot is viewed every 4-5 days, since the mustache appears until October, and the newly emerged spear of shoots is removed.

Strawberries have a balance between yield and fruiting: if the plants are not allowed to form a mustache, it enhances the fruiting and vice versa, if you do not pick them off, the yield is greatly reduced.

The plantation should always be clean of weeds, fertilized, bushes should be trimmed with a mustache.

In the fall, water-charging irrigation is carried out, if necessary, a heater is laid out in the aisles.

Plantation care of the last year of cultivation

With spring feeding, you can give a little more nitrogen, the bushes will not have time to fry, and the yield from this will not decrease. With dry soil, watering is carried out. Immediately after fruiting, the bed is dug up. This year you can plant early cabbage on it, which will have time to mature before the onset of cold weather (for this, increased doses of nitrogen were given).

Strawberry Mulching

When caring for a plantation, mulching materials are used to protect berries from dirt and decay, warming bushes in the winter and protect the soil from premature heating in the thaw. and prevents the formation of soil crust after rain or watering.

The use of mulch when growing strawberries is the best way to keep the plot clean, which greatly facilitates the care of it. To prevent unwanted effects during its use, mulch is applied subject to certain conditions.

As mulching materials, sawdust, straw, dry moss, fallen leaves, needles are used. Their disadvantage is the binding of soil nitrogen, which causes nitrogen starvation of plants. Therefore, the mulch is introduced in the fall as a heater in the aisles, by spring the process of fiber breakdown (of which it consists) will be completed and nitrogen binding will not occur.

In the spring, the insulation is removed to better warm the soil, then it is returned as mulch, and a fresh portion of the material is added to it. When making mulching materials in the spring, they must be impregnated with a solution of humates, mullein or bird droppings.

To do this, either soak them in a barrel with a solution of fertilizer (sawdust), or very abundantly watered with these fertilizers so that the mulch is completely saturated with the solution. Then the binding of soil nitrogen will not occur, and the plants will not experience nitrogen starvation.

Mulching strawberries with sawdust. Sawdust strongly acidifies the soil, watering them with urea as a nitrogen fertilizer enhances acidification. This effect gives excellent results on leached chernozems. On acidic soils this cannot be allowed. To prevent soil acidification, sawdust is first soaked in a barrel with humates or chicken droppings, after which they become an excellent mulching material. They are scattered on the beds with a layer of 6-10 cm. Sawdust is stronger than hay and straw inhibits the growth of weeds.

Straw as a mulch.

Mulching with grass and straw. Hay and straw consist of almost one fiber and bind soil nitrogen very strongly. They are brought in the fall. When hay or straw is used as mulch in the spring, dung crumbs are brought along with them, or the mulch that has just been spread is irrigated with nitrogen fertilizers (humates, mullein, grass infusion). In this case, nitrogen binding does not occur and the yield does not fall. They are laid out in the aisles with a layer of 5-7 cm.

Mulch from the leaves. It is desirable to introduce foliage of deciduous trees in the fall, laying in the aisles with a layer of 15-20 cm. In winter, it will be a heater. With spring use, freshly spread leaves are watered with humates, mullein, or herbal infusion.

Mulching strawberry needles. Pine and spruce bark and needles well protect plants from diseases, since they contain volatile products. The material is taken only under healthy trees, scattered in the aisles and under the bushes with a layer of 7-10 cm. Since this material strongly acidifies the soil, it is introduced with dung crumbs.

Peat as a mulch they do not use strawberries, since it has a number of significant disadvantages:

strongly acidifies the soil;
it has a very large moisture capacity, because of which it is almost impossible to impregnate with a nitrogen solution;
in wet weather, it gets wet and interferes with the normal respiration of the roots;
in winter it can become covered with an ice crust, which leads to the plants being warmed up.

The proper use of mulch not only helps to simplify the maintenance of the plantation, but it itself is a good fertilizer.

Berry protection from dirt

Berries lying on the ground are polluted by the earth, moreover, they are more affected by gray rot. So that the berries do not come into contact with the soil, you can make various supports for the bushes: from wire, plastic bottles, boards, films, special rings on the legs are sold in stores. But all this is suitable for a small plot.

On a large plantation, torn lower peripheral leaves are placed under green berries. If the bush is healthy, red berries can lie on the ground for some time without being damaged.

When growing strawberries, it is not necessary to maintain a plantation with a more productive fruiting period. The berry should move around the site in frequent rotation.

Topping flowering strawberries

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Of great importance for the ripening of fruits is the proper feeding of strawberries during the flowering period, and it can be fertilized during this time only once and only with those mineral substances that are specifically designed for flowering strawberries.

Common for flowering plants or vegetables of the period of mating can not be used. Flowering strawberries require fertilizing with potassium, so it can be fertilized with potassium nitrate - a teaspoon of 10 l / water. With the advent of the first buds, and then inflorescences, the bushes are fed chicken droppings, humus or ash.

These substances are very corrosive, so you need to strictly dose their amount, otherwise you can damage the plant. To increase the number of inflorescences, strawberries at the time of ovary are poured with an aqueous solution of boric acid - a pinch of 10 l / water.

Removal of whiskers and first peduncles, loosening of the earth

It is important that the flowering bush gain strength for fruiting, so it must not be disturbed by a mustache that takes moisture from the soil and excess leaves, especially those that have dried up. Using secateurs, they are carefully removed.

It is considered correct to remove the first peduncles from the bushes, since the next inflorescences will be much larger than the previous ones, which will affect the size of the berries. It is not necessary to delete them all, you can do it selectively by sorting the smallest flowers from those that are larger.

Strawberries will bloom well if they dig up weeds and regularly loosen the ground with a small rake, preventing the formation of a crust on its surface and improving air exchange.

Watering strawberries during flowering

Wild strawberries do not know leaving, therefore its berries are small and dry. The fruits grown on the site can also be the same, if you ignore the rules of watering, disease prevention and pest control.

It is important to ensure that the plants have enough moisture, including during flowering, since the root system of strawberries located close to the soil surface is not capable of extracting water from the depths. A lack of moisture will cause the root to dry out, and an excess of it will spoil it due to the appearance of gray rot, so watering should be moderate.

The type of soil also matters. The loose earth passes moisture well, and for 1 square. m on the plantation enough 10-12 liters of water. If there is a lot of clay in the soil, then the norm will require 2 liters more water, that is, 12-14 liters per 1 square. m. Flowering strawberries are watered in the morning, using non-cold water, once every 10-12 days, unless weather conditions require otherwise.

During the heat, the frequency of watering can be increased up to 3-4 times a week, and in case of heavy rains it is not recommended to water the bushes at all. In this case, the flowers should be protected by covering the plant with a film until sunny days. It is also important to know how to water flowering strawberries. If before the appearance of peduncles, bushes with some leaves were irrigated by the rain method, then you need to water the flowering plant in a slightly different way. Now it is most correct to use drip irrigation.

For irrigation of flowering bushes, you can use a watering can, trying not to get water on the inflorescences, and then pour the base of the plant with an additional bucket. It is necessary to monitor the condition of the soil at the roots, which should not be open after watering. They must be covered with earth.

Pollination of flowering bushes

When instead of whole and bright berries deformed faded fruits appeared, and also small ones, it means that strawberries did not have enough pollination. There may be natural reasons for this, for example, frequent rains, fog, heat, cold, death of bees and so on, because the temperature suitable for flowering is air heated to 20 ° C.

Although strawberries are self-pollinated, helping plants is the main concern. It can be pollinated additionally by running a soft brush over the flowers in the middle of the day when the sun is at its zenith. Ally pollination - bees.

If you dissolve a spoonful of honey in a liter of water and spray the bushes with a solution, these insects will certainly gather on the plantation. Planting different strawberry varieties nearby, you can create another condition for pollination when the bushes exchange pollen carried by the wind. High-quality pollination is the key to an excellent harvest.

The flowering period of strawberries is a prerequisite for obtaining a large number of fruits, which can be ensured if the plantation is properly taken care of.

Strawberry is a favorite berry for everyone, it is considered a dietary product, as it has a low energy value. It improves digestion, increases appetite and quenches thirst. Strawberry fruits are rich in: calcium, manganese, carotene, as well as malic and citric acid. Strawberries should be consumed in case of gastric ulcer and in violation of salt metabolism.

Strawberries are the most common agricultural crop that we grow with pleasure in our beds. In order to get a rich harvest of healthy and tasty berries you need to work a little. The most laborious work to care for strawberries will be in the spring, which will affect the harvest. The main care for strawberries is watering, top dressing, weeding and loosening and solution.

There are two main types of strawberries:

Fruiting only in summer;
Removant - fruit bearing from spring to autumn, which is considered the most popular, as it pleases us throughout the season.

In spring, it is imperative to mulch and fertilize plants. Loosen the beds and sprinkle them with sawdust, peat crumbs or ordinary humus, immediately feed the plants with nitrogen fertilizers. When fresh leaves appear under each bush, add a mullein solution. In early May, feed the strawberries with complex mineral fertilizers.

How to water strawberries during flowering

Strawberries should be watered early in the morning, settled with warm water. Before flowering, plants can be watered by sprinkling, and during flowering and fruiting should be watered under the root, without affecting the leaves and berries.

Watering strawberries is often not worth it, this can lead to a moisture-loving disease and the development of gray rot. In the heat it is necessary to water once every 10 days only with warm water.

Feeding strawberries during flowering

Top dressing is especially important during flowering, so that the plant can set the maximum number of fruits and not fall off from a lack of nutrients. But in order not to harm the plant with inept dressing, you need to know the following.

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There are several types of top dressing:

root
foliar;
top dressing with organic fertilizers.

Strawberry root dressing

Water the plants under root - with a solution fertilizers, this will allow the roots to get the necessary trace elements.

For such watering, you can use the following formulations:

urea solution (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) -stir until urea is completely dissolved;
- real wood ash (1 glass per 1 liter of water). Pour the ash with hot water, let it brew, strain and water;
-Solution of bird droppings (0.5l. can of droppings for 10 liters of water), mix thoroughly and pour under the root.

Foliar feeding strawberries

Foliar feeding strawberries includes leaf processing. Dilute complex fertilizer according to the instructions and spray the underside of the leaf, which is responsible for absorbing the nutrients needed by the plant. Complex fertilizers specially created for strawberries are: “Rubin”, “Agros”, “Hera”. Carefully follow the dosage to avoid burning leaves of the plant. Another way of foliar top dressing: sprinkle wood ash on the soil surface previously well loosened her. On 1 sq.m. 1 glass of ash is required.

Strawberries will bloom well if they regularly loosen the ground (this contributes to better air exchange and prevents the formation of crust), digging up weeds.

Organic fertilizer dressing

In order not to pollute the soil and berries with chemicals (which kill the beneficial microflora and worsen the quality of the soil), many gardeners use natural organics. Do-it-yourself fertilizers are not only safe, but will also save you a budget. Natural fertilizers include: wood ash, cow dung, bird droppings. Half-fill the ten-liter bucket with the fertilizer of your choice and add water, mix, close the lid and let it brew for 3 days.

Dilute a half-liter can in a 10 liter bucket and pour strawberries under the root. Freshly prepared solution cannot be used, as it will burn the leaves and roots of plants. Nettle can also be used as fertilizer. Tamp the plant in a bucket and fill completely with water. Let it brew for 2-3 days, strain, dilute with water (half a liter of infusion per 10 liters of water) and water. Nettle contains a lot of potassium and nitrogen.

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Flowering strawberry disease

One of the unpleasant moments in growing strawberries is illness. One of the dangerous diseases of the berry is gray rot. The cause of this disease is rainy and cold days. Brown spots appear on the fruits, and then the berries are covered with a gray coating. Sick berries do not leave in the beds, as gray rot leaves its spores, which will easily spread throughout the site. For prophylaxis, use copper chloride. To prepare the solution, you need to dilute 1 tbsp. on 10l.water. Spray bushes before flowering.

Garden strawberry is a whimsical and capricious crop requiring constant care and attention. Breeders from different countries have bred many varieties that differ in flowering time, shape, size and taste characteristics of the fruit, as well as resistance to various diseases and weather conditions. The general principles of agricultural technology remain unchanged for all varieties of strawberries. Spring care occupies a special place, and the future harvest directly depends on the quality and timely implementation of it.

How to care for strawberries in spring

Spring strawberry care work begins as early as possible. The faster the strawberry plantation is put in order, the better. As soon as the snow cover melts and the soil dries up, you need to start active action. The main activities are as follows:

territory cleaning;
pruning old leaves and mustaches;
replanting old bushes;
watering;
top dressing;
treatment for diseases and pests.

Care for strawberry beds should be started as early as possible

The timing

In regions with different climatic conditions, the dates for spring strawberry care work are very different. Plants wake up, the root system begins to function and fresh shoots appear when the soil warms up above + 5 ... + 7 ° C. So that the snow lying on the strawberry beds melts faster, it is sprinkled with some dark powder: crushed ash, coal or tobacco dust, peat. A wire frame is mounted above the landings and any covering material is thrown onto it. This simple procedure allows you to accelerate fruiting by 7-10 days.

Work on strawberry plantations begins immediately after snow

Some gardeners recommend the use of potassium permanganate granules, which not only enhance the absorption of sunlight, but also disinfect the soil, and also feed the plants.

On average, work on strawberry beds begins at such a time:

southern warm regions - early March;
the middle lane and the Moscow Region - from late March to early April;
northern regions - from late April to mid-May.

In the northern regions, in order to warm the strawberries faster, the beds are covered with a film or cloth

Depending on the specific weather conditions, the timing of spring work may vary, but the sequence of actions always remains the same.

In severe Siberian conditions, winters are usually so snowy that snow melts not earlier than mid-April. Next you need to closely monitor the weather. In just a few days, everything dries up and you can deal with strawberry plantings. We always begin gardening with their cleaning of old foliage. If you are late, then the dry leaves completely dry and it becomes impossible to collect them, since they scatter into small fragments. As a result, all infected with pests or diseased parts of the plant remain on the ground, and even carried by the wind throughout the garden. It is most convenient to use a fan rake that rakes the mowed grass on the lawn. They less injure bushes and better remove small debris.

Strawberry planting and pruning

If the berry plantations were insulated for the winter, then it is necessary to remove the shelter as soon as possible so that the bushes do not bar in the event of a sharp warming. Roll insulation is neatly folded and cleaned until autumn colds. Some gardeners in autumn cover strawberries with branches, spruce branches, sawdust, hay, vegetable tops or other plant residues. All this needs to be removed. Rakes rake dry leaves and last year's mulching layer. In spring, this mulch is more likely to interfere, since the root system warms up worse, the plant later wakes up and does not touch well in growth.

Rakes rake all dry leaves and garbage, then burn

No need to be afraid to pull the plant out with a rake. A normal healthy strawberry bush holds in the ground very firmly due to branched roots. A rough mechanical impact with a rake is not able to cause significant harm to strawberries. Only sick or weak specimens are easily pulled out.

Secateurs or garden shears cut out all old, damaged, dead leaves, the remaining mustache and last year's flower stalks. Ruthlessly remove all unnecessary, leaving only a few fresh green leaves. The basal sheets lying on the ground, too, must be cleaned. Then you need to walk along the soil surface with a stiff broom, raking small rubbish. All plant organic residues must be carefully collected and must be burned, because pathogens of various infectious diseases are collected on them, and pests insects (weevil, aphids, etc.) winter there.

Secateurs or clippers trim last year’s leaves and remaining mustache

Berry plantings carefully loosen, being careful not to damage the roots. Aisles are treated with a hoe or a hoe. Loosening improves soil aeration and helps to better retain moisture in the soil under the plants. It is necessary to carefully correct the beds with strawberries. If the roots are bare, then you need to pour the earth under the bushes. Pieces of soil should not be allowed to enter the center of the bush; the growth point should always be above the soil level. If necessary, if the plant has gone too deep into the ground during wintering, it needs to be raised a little. It is carefully dug up and raised to the desired level.

Strawberry beds after garbage and pruning must be loosened

It is best to prune strawberries immediately after fruiting. In Siberia, this time falls on the end of July or the beginning of August. For several years we have been practicing burning with the help of a gas burner. Old foliage burns down along with the pests and fungal spores present on it. In this case, the bush itself does not suffer. Almost immediately after this procedure, green young leaves grow, and before the onset of autumn, strawberries have time to acquire a lush and healthy crown. In the spring, you don’t have to bother with pruning for a long time, you can clean the overwintered ground part and garbage in literally half an hour. The main thing is to catch up to the appearance of fresh shoots. Otherwise, it will be inconvenient to use a rake, since it is extremely simple to damage fragile leaves.

Replanting old strawberry bushes in spring

When everything is tidied up and put in order, you need to conduct a detailed audit of all plants that survived the winter. Wintered bushes are carefully examined for viability. Dead, dried out or too weak specimens must be pulled out and destroyed. So that there are no bald spots on the beds, new plants are planted on the vacant space. As a planting material, you can use a well-established strong mustache or divide the mother bush into several parts.

Other strawberry bushes are transplanted to empty places left after dead plants

You need to do this as quickly as possible, then the transplanted bushes will have time to take root well before the onset of hot summer time. During the rapid growth of green mass, the root system also actively grows. This period is considered the most favorable for strawberry transplantation. Slight damage to small roots of the plant can easily tolerate.

Transplantation is carried out according to the following technology:

Undermine the damaged specimen under the root and remove along with a lump of earth, as pests like to settle in the soil between the roots.
Several adult bushes are selected for seedlings. Last year’s strong mustache can be used.
Divide the rhizome into parts. Each fragment should have its own growth point and a minimum of 2-3 leaves.
The roots are dipped in a weak solution of potassium permanganate (light pink).
Dig and prepare the hole. They make nitrogen fertilizer, peat or humus.
The hole is filled with water. The liquid should be settled and slightly warm (not cold well or tap).
After the water is absorbed, the seedling is placed in the planting hole.
Holding the plant by the core, fill the hole with earth. The growth point should not be buried, as the bush can rot.
Once again abundantly watered.

For transplantation, adult strawberry bushes are used, which are neatly divided into parts

In the spring, they are arranging new beds. Strawberries are transplanted to another place every 3-4 years. This crop gives the maximum yield in the second and third year of life, then the yield drops sharply. The soil is depleted, the number of pests is growing rapidly and the plants begin to hurt often, so after this time, the strawberry plantation needs to be rejuvenated.

Watering Strawberry Plantings in Spring

Immediately after wintering, the soil is well saturated with melt water. But moisture evaporates very quickly and you need to water strawberry plantations regularly. Since the root system of strawberries is superficial and never goes deeper than 20-30 cm into the ground, water scarcity negatively affects the development of culture and the formation of the ovary. The need for early spring watering can be determined visually by the type of plant. If the leaves faded and begin to curl inward, then the planting should be moistened urgently.

The need for early spring irrigation of strawberries is determined by the appearance of plants

There is a proven way to determine if watering is necessary. To do this, dig a hole about 30 cm deep. A handful of earth is taken from its bottom and squeezed in the palm of your hand. If, after unclenching the fingers, the soil sample breaks up into large pieces, then moistening is not yet required. A lump of earth, crumbling into dust, signals a lack of moisture and urgency of irrigation.

The berry culture is watered abundantly, the soil should be soaked to a depth of at least 40 cm. On average, about ½ liter of liquid is required for each bush. In the absence of rain, strawberry beds are moistened once every 5–7 days. This is best done in the early morning before sunrise or in the evening after sunset. Before the first flowers of planting appear, you can water the irrigation methods (from a watering can), this stimulates a more magnificent growth of the aerial green part. Further irrigation is performed in row spacing or in special holes dug between the bushes, as well as in the drip method.

Before flowering, strawberries can be watered from a watering can.

The culture negatively reacts to the temperature of the irrigation fluid. It is not recommended to water plants with cold water from a well or well. We must give her a little rest and warm up in the sun. Excessive moisture is very harmful for strawberries, as with excessive humidity, favorable conditions are created for the development of fungal infections and rot. This is especially true during fruit setting and ripening. If the weather is cool and rainy, then watering should be stopped.

After the first high-quality moistening, you need to mulch the beds with fresh straw, mowed grass, sawdust, pine needles, etc. This will help retain moisture in the soil for a longer time and reduce the frequency of watering. The mulch layer should be about 3-5 cm. Some gardeners use non-woven covering materials or a dark plastic film for this purpose.

After watering, strawberries are mulched

For several years now, we have been using grass mowed grass as a mulch. During the period of active growth, it grows especially rapidly and has to be mowed often. Our lawn is considered sports and grass on it with small neat narrow narrow leaves. Even when it is beveled, it looks unusually decorative and does not at all spoil the appearance of the beds that it mulched, not to mention the undoubted benefits that it brings.

Strawberry Fertilizer Organic Fertilizer

Mandatory step in the list of spring procedures for the care of strawberries is the application of fertilizers. Many gardeners prefer to use exclusively organic top dressing, since they are considered completely harmless and an overdose of them is impossible. Unlike mineral supplements, an excess of which adversely affects the taste of berries and makes them dangerous to human health.

Many gardeners prefer organic dressing

For the first time, strawberry plantations are fertilized after snow melts, when the active growth of bushes begins. Top dressing is carried out before blooming when steady warm weather is established. This procedure stimulates the growth of aboveground green mass and the formation of flower ovaries.

The following fertilizers of organic origin are used:

Mullein. 0.3 kg of manure is poured into a bucket of water and insisted for 2-3 days. The resulting nutrient composition is introduced into special grooves that are dug between the bushes. 10 l of solution is enough for 3-4 linear meters. You can water each plant under the root, trying to ensure that the liquid does not fall on the leaves. Sometimes it is advised to simply lay the dung right under the roots, sprinkling 2-3 cm of soil on top. But it should be borne in mind that fresh mullein contains weed seeds, which will then germinate.
Most often they use mullein infusion, but manure can simply be decomposed under the plants.
Humus. Sprinkle on the ground under the leaves. At the same time performs the role of mulch.
Humus is scattered in the near-chest zone
Chicken droppings. It is a natural source of nitrogen, which is especially necessary for the development of plants in the spring. Requires strong dilution: 20 parts of water need only 1 part of the litter. The composition is left to infuse for 3-4 days, then watered planting. About ½ liter of solution is spent on each bush.
Infusion of chicken droppings watered each bush under the root
Nettle or other weed grass. Chopped herbs fill 1/3 of the bucket, which is then poured to the top with water. The resulting infusion is diluted in a ratio of 1: 3 and watered planting strawberries between rows. About 1 liter of nutrient fluid is consumed per 1 m 2.
For feeding use infusion of nettle or any other weed grass
Wood ash. A glass of ground ash is poured with a bucket of water, mixed and brought under the bushes (1 liter per 1 m 2). You can just sprinkle the powder on the surface of the soil under the plants.
Strawberries are fertilized with infusion of ash
Yeast. Contain nitrogen, zinc, potassium and other useful substances. 0.2 kg of raw baking yeast is diluted in ½ liter of warm water, insisted for 20-30 minutes, then the solution volume is brought up to 10 l and strawberry bushes are abundantly watered with it.

Strawberries respond very well to foliar top dressing. For spraying bushes, solutions of organic fertilizers must be used in half concentration.

Mineral fertilizers are often applied in the fall after harvest. In early spring, the following formulations are used:

ammonium nitrate or nitroammophoska - 35–45 g per 1 m 2 (scattered between the bushes) or 25–30 g per 10 liters of water (½ liter for each plant);
carbamide - 1 tbsp. l for 10 liters of water (½ liter under the bush);
potassium sulfate - 25-30 g per 1 m 2.

Strawberries can be fed with mineral fertilizers

On sale you can find special complex fertilizers designed for garden strawberries.

You can use a special complex fertilizer designed for strawberries

After the distribution of the mineral granules on the surface, the soil needs to be loosened a little and the fertilizer mixed with the ground.

Pest control and disease prevention

Strawberry plantations are often attacked by insect pests and are affected by various diseases. It is much easier to prevent the occurrence of a problem than to struggle with its consequences for a long time. Therefore, in the spring, preventive measures to control pests and diseases on strawberries are given special importance. Prevention is advised to be carried out after loosening the topsoil and before applying fresh mulch.

In the spring, preventive treatments of strawberry plantings from pests and diseases are mandatory

A huge number of different pests settle on strawberries, but most often there are:

nematode;
transparent strawberry tick;
weevil beetle;
slugs;
spider mite;
may beetles (larvae);
bears

Of the diseases, strawberry plantations most often affect:

powdery mildew;
white and gray rot;
root rot;
spotting;
viral mosaic;
fusarium wilt.

With proper care and good preventive treatment with special drugs, it is possible to avoid the spread of fungal infections and damage by harmful insects. Great importance is attached to the timely cleaning of last year's plant debris, in which pathogens and insect larvae winter. It is recommended not only to remove dry leaves, but also to remove the topsoil (2-3 cm). In extreme cases, deep loosening of 6-8 cm is allowed.

Preventive treatments are carried out as follows:

In the early spring, after garbage collection and loosening, the plantations are treated with copper-containing preparations (3% Bordeaux liquid, 2% copper sulfate, HOM, etc.). This measure helps against a range of fungal diseases. If the air temperature is above + 15 ... + 17 ° C, then you can use biological products (Fitodoctor, Fitosporin, Trichodermin, etc.).
Before budding, around the beginning of April (in the northern regions at the end of April or beginning of May), the bushes are sprayed with fungicidal preparations to prevent the appearance of pests (Karbofos, Urea, Actellik, Aktofit, Aktara, etc.).
At the end of flowering, re-treatment against insects with fungicides is carried out.

Preventive treatments are carried out with various drugs.

Do not rush to use chemicals if last season on the plantation there were no disturbing signs on strawberries. You can try to get by with harmless folk methods:

Watering with water heated to 60–65 ° C. Hot leaves are poured over all the leaves of the plant and its core. With this treatment, most of the pest larvae die.
Hot water destroys pests, their larvae and eggs
A solution of ammonia (10 ml of water 40 ml of ammonia). The ammonia solution is an excellent nitrogen fertilizer, and also destroys aphids, nematodes and other insects. All bushes and the soil under them are watered from a watering can three times a season:
Tincture of iodine (10 ml. Per 10 liters of water). Processing is carried out with a frequency of 1 time in 7-10 days. The tool is effective against gray rot and weevils.
Strawberry beds are watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate
Mustard infusion. 50 g of dry mustard powder is diluted in 5 l of warm water, insisted for two days, then diluted with another 5 l of water and watered strawberry bushes.
Mustard infusion helps in the fight against weevils on strawberries
Garlic infusion. Take 200-300 g of arrows of garlic or chopped cloves and a bucket of water, insist a day, then spray the plantings. The solution is effective against spider mites.
Hydrogen peroxide helps fight rot on strawberries.

There is a specialized complex preparation “Strawberry Rescuer”, which has a very wide range of actions. It effectively destroys insects, their eggs and larvae, fights against fungal pathologies, and also stimulates plant growth.

Strawberry lifesaver is a universal remedy

observe crop rotation and not grow strawberries in one place for more than 4 years;
always process the acquired new seedlings before planting and immediately after it;
buy planting material only in trusted locations and from reliable suppliers;
timely destroy diseased plants and weeds;
to plant grass in the aisles, repelling harmful insects and attracting beneficial ones.

Preventive measures take much less time and energy than the subsequent fight against fungal diseases and pests.

Garlic planted between strawberry bushes repels insect pests

Very good scare pests ordinary garlic. We always plant it in late autumn between strawberry bushes. Garlic sprouts appear early when the berry culture has not yet woken up after hibernation. Due to the insecticidal properties of the spicy vegetable, the number of pests on strawberry beds is noticeably reduced. The biological method of planting protection works efficiently and absolutely safely.

Growing a fragrant and tasty berry is not as difficult as it might seem, at first glance, even in rather harsh climatic conditions of the risky farming zone. Observing the whole range of necessary spring activities and applying a certain amount of physical labor, the patient and skillful gardener always manages to get a good harvest of garden strawberries.

Garden strawberries one of the first among garden crops wakes up from hibernation. In a short time, much needs to be done to ensure her a successful start to the season and a rich strawberry crop for next year.

STAGES OF WORKS AT STRAWBERRY:

Harvesting crop residues and pruning old strawberry leaves

As soon as the snow has melted and the soil around the plants has dried up, it is necessary to collect the dry leaves remaining after the winter, the remains of the mustache and peduncles with dry berries. Remove all plant debris from your plantings of garden strawberries (strawberries): pathogens remain on them.

Remove dead residues carefully in dry, sunny weather. Carefully cut off all the old leaves, taking care not to damage the hearts and young leaves - the plants have not yet been sufficiently rooted after the winter, they can easily be pulled out of the soil. It is necessary to remove the remains of the mulch, if it has remained since last fall. Thus, we provide good access of the sun to the roots, the soil will warm up better, favorable conditions will be created for the growth of the underground part of the plant. The root system at a low positive temperature of the soil grows more intensively than the leaves and provides optimal conditions for the nutrition of leaves and berries.

Planting and transplanting strawberries in spring

In spring, lunges may appear on the strawberry plantation: not all plants tolerate wintering well. Is it possible to transplant young strawberry rosettes in early spring? It is possible, but as quickly as possible. Tardiness can adversely affect further growth: moisture from the soil will evaporate quickly. An increase in air temperature accelerates the growth of the aboveground parts of the plant and the root system may not be able to cope with providing them with moisture, the plants will fade. Try to plant strawberries in the first decade of April. This period is favorable for the start of regrowth of the root system, and the vegetative mass is still not growing. Plants will develop a sufficiently powerful root system and will be able to feed the newly growing leaves and peduncles without much damage.

For better survival, they can be transplanted with a lump of earth. About a month after planting, be sure to check each plant by inspecting the center of the bush. While the soil is loose and seedlings have not had time to take root, it is often dragged into the soil with rain and watering. If the heart is below the soil level, slowly pull it out of the ground by the leaf petioles or pry it off with a scoop, raising it to the desired level. Squeeze the soil around the bushes and water. Before watering, remove the soil from the center of the bush with a soft brush.

Spring processing of strawberries from diseases and pests

After harvesting on strawberry beds and planting new seedlings, carry out prophylactic treatment of garden strawberry plants from fungi that could go from plant debris to young leaves. Copper-containing fungicides are suitable for this: HOM, Horus, Bordeaux mixture, Abiga Peak.

This will reduce the risk of damage to plants, spotting, verticillosis.

Strawberries are very responsive to soil loosening. As soon as the soil around the plants dries and becomes suitable for cultivation, loosen the row-spacing. This helps to preserve soil moisture, improves oxygen access to the roots. At the same time, perennial weeds can be removed.

The first early spring loosening of the soil is very important: the soil during this period is very compacted due to autumn rains and melt water. Being late with loosening the soil can cost you a significant portion of the berry crop. Carefully loosen the soil in the row-spacings to a depth of 10 cm. Directly near the bushes, deep loosening is not possible so as not to damage the root system. In strawberries, it is superficial. During loosening, slightly hush the bushes so that the additional roots growing at that time on the strawberry horns are under a layer of soil.

When loosening row spacings, pay attention to the bare roots of old bushes. They need land filling or a small hilling. Some of the young plants planted last year during the winter may be dragged into the soil. They should be scooped up and the growth point freed.

Spring strawberry dressing

With a noticeable regrowth of the leaves, fertilizing can begin. Under strawberries, it is recommended to apply both organic and mineral fertilizers. Organics are best used when planting, during the main digging of the soil. Usually make rotted manure: 5-8 kg per 1 m². Its action lasts 4-5 years, and the duration of strawberry cultivation in one place is just usually 4 years, otherwise the berry will be smaller.

If the soil before planting strawberries was well seasoned with organic fertilizer, in the future, you can do separately phosphoric fertilizers in the fall and potash before flowering. Nitrogen fertilizers should be applied only in the spring, when the soil is first loosened.

As a rule, superphosphate is used for phosphorus fertilizers for strawberries (35-55 g per 1 m² is applied in autumn), potassium sulfate is used for potato fertilizers (25-35 g per 1 m² is added before flowering), and ammonium nitrate is preferred over nitrogen ( make it early in the spring at the rate of 35-45 g per 1 m²). Specially designed for strawberries are available in retail stores. They contain an already balanced set of batteries and are especially suitable for beginner gardeners.

Dry straw is usually used for strawberries.: sprinkle fertilizer in the aisles before loosening. You can carry out fertilizing with liquid organic fertilizers. For example, infusion of chicken manure: insist chicken manure in a small amount of water for 5-6 days, then dilute the concentrate in a ratio of 1:10 and add at the rate of 3.6-6.0 l per 1 m². The advantage of applying liquid top dressings is that they begin to be absorbed by the root system as quickly as possible. When applying liquid organic and nitrogen fertilizers, the main thing is not to overfeed the strawberries. Otherwise, instead of berries, we get a large rosette of leaves.

Try to sprinkle strawberries before floweringurea solution (25-30 g per 10 l of water). This will increase its yield by 25%. Also, before flowering, dressing with such a mixture is effective: 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate and 2 tablespoons of nitroammophoska per 10 liters of water. The flow rate of the solution is 0.5 l per bush.

Mulching Strawberry Plantings

After fertilizing, the time comes for mulching the rows of strawberries. This is a mandatory technique, it is recommended to repeat it twice a year: in early spring and late autumn. Mulch protects berries from contact with the ground, which significantly reduces the risk of rot; retains moisture in the soil; inhibits weed growth. The soil becomes loose and nutritious, organic mulch helps to improve the work of soil microorganisms. When watering, it restrains the spraying of soil on the berry, and in the end, the mulch gives the strawberries a beautiful, well-groomed appearance, which is also important.

There are different ways to mulch the soil under the strawberries: film (in an annual culture), non-woven material, sawdust, chopped straw, dry grass, compost, leaf humus, pine needles.

Mulch is spread on the soil surface with a layer of 4-7 cm, no less, but no more: excessive mulching prevents the sun from warming the ground in spring. The north the strawberry growing area, the thinner the layer of mulch should be in spring, but it should be enough to keep the berry clean.

The roots of garden strawberries actively function in well-warmed soil. Therefore, in the middle lane, where cold weather is often in spring and early summer, a method of planting strawberries using a dark film or non-woven material is common. Laying agrotextile contributes to the accumulation of heat in the soil, even if the summer was cool. Note that the growth point in the center of the bush ("heart") is located exactly at the level of the soil. If the planting is too high, the plant may freeze, if buried, it will rot.

Early spring is the best time for laying mulch on strawberries. It is necessary to catch up to the moment when the plants begin to throw peduncles. Mulch is removed after harvesting the berries.

Watering strawberries in spring

Strawberries are very responsive to watering. With a balanced amount of moisture in the soil, not only the quantity but also the quality of the crop increases. In the spring, from the beginning of leaf growth to flowering strawberries, experienced gardeners recommend irrigation irrigation - this contributes to the growth of leaves. During the ripening of strawberries, only soil should be watered. Here, drip irrigation has proven itself well.

Strawberries have several critical periods of need for moisture. The first is before flowering. If the weather is hot and dry before flowering, then planting strawberries must be shed. Further watering should be necessary. It is advisable that this be after the harvest of the ripe berries, otherwise excess moisture on the overripe fruits can cause the development of gray rot. If it rains during the ripening period of strawberries, watering should be limited.